The Flintlock Black Powder Pistol - A Basic Introduction

The fact that the flintlock system was to endure for nearly two hundred years is testament to its popularity and to the fact that black powder pistols and muskets of this era were both durable and very cheap to produce. But, unlike its successor the percussion cap black powder pistol, the flintlock is very likely to cause a few ignition hassles to the first-time black powder shooter, unless some very basic precautionary measures are undertaken. Fortunately modern day shooters are able to address these issues very easily .. thus enhancing the pleasure one gets in firing these unique firearms of a bygone age.

In simple terms the flintlock pistol works by way of a cock or hammer holding a flint descending down onto a steel metal plate known as a frizzen. The resulting spark produced (actually minute pieces of white hot metal) falls into the flashpan (the term still in use today 'flash in the pan' has its origins from this) ignites the exposed priming powder which in turn ignites the primary charge, thus discharging the ball.

Because of the very nature of the mechanism, there is a slight time delay between the sound of the flint striking and final discharge. Most frustrating for waterfowlers in the 'good old days' when the birds were spooked immediately the trigger was pulled.

You can imagine how much that situation would be worsened if ignition was further hampered. A few precautionary checks and due diligence undertaken before you head off to shoot will make your shooting experience that much more the pleasurable.

Things to think through. What's the ideal volume of powder for your lock? Half a pan? Three quarters? Every Flintlock is different and as such it has different priming requirements. You will need to experiment to see just how much powder best suits. Most important, ensure that the powder is not in touch with the touch hole liner .. you don't want this turned into a fuse thus delaying final ignition of the main charge. Ideally, the liner should be level with the flashpan.

How hard is your frizzen? If soft, the flint will often gouge out the frizzen face rather than just glance over it .. and that's not what you are looking for. Apply the simple file test .. run a file over it .. if it glances off, great! But if it 'digs on in' .. then you need to replace your frizzen.

There are flints .. and there are flints! Just as with your frizzen if you are to get virtually instantaneous ignition then you need the very hardest flints that you can find. Black English flints have a good reputation .. as do the Duraflints .. which are particularly long lasting and which can be readily sharpened with a wet diamond file.

I have here just touched on three of the many important things you need to address. But others include the type of powder you use (Pyrodex is not suitable for Flintlock black powder pistols or muskets), the importance of double coning for the touch hole liner, the correct size of the flints to be used, proper placement of the flint and angling to the jaws of the frizzen and so on.

As with any sport .. do your homework! Talk with fellow shooters .. there is a wealth of knowledge to be gained from your local black powder club, interact on the online forums .. folk there are always willing to step forward to assist beginners with helpful advice, undertake some research via your local library, or go buy one of the many guides available on the internet.

There is no great mystery to the Flintlock black powder pistol .. you will come to grips with these eccentricities quick enough .. just draw on the vast knowledge base which is available to you and enjoy all that the sport has to offer.